by KATIE THOMAS
Imagine traveling through Gallatin Canyon without the benefit of a paved highway. Now imagine becoming tired on these journeys and needing a place to rest for the evening. Today, there are plenty of lodging options along the Gallatin River, not to mention a smooth road but what a bumpy ride it must have been for the locals and tourists around the turn of the 20th century. Horses and carriages and an occasional car made the trek between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, and travelers needed a midway stopping point along the Gallatin River for an overnight. And 106 years ago that stopping point got much more comfortable.
Rainbow Ranch Lodge, originally a homestead and working ranch, is a guest lodge situated snugly along the banks of the Gallatin River at 42950 Gallatin Road on Highway 191. Named for its once bright, tricolored roof, the Rainbow is a rustic yet contemporary inn for weary travelers and vacationers alike to stop and pass the evening, with 21 guest rooms, a full service restaurant, wedding and events spaces, and more. Owned since 2011 by Scott Gibson and managed by fourth generation Bozemanite Peter Christian and his wife Lisa, the Rainbow is one of Gallatin Canyon’s most beloved and historic lodges, blending a colorful history with modern luxury.
In 1919, homesteaders Tom and Mary Michener sold the land where Rainbow Ranch Lodge stands today to R.B. and Pearl Lemon, who renamed the property the Half Way Inn, in recognition of its location halfway between Bozeman and Yellowstone National Park. The Lemons eventually added rental cabins, a gas pump, an auto shop, two barns, a sawmill, a smoke house, a blacksmith cabin, and the Eat Here Café. This became a way station for people traveling through the canyon, and its proximity to the new highway made the Half Way Inn the start of commercial enterprise along 191. The Lemons’ son Stanley grew up to marry Tom and Mary Michener’s daughter, Ora Michener, and the couple took over the property until selling it in 1946 to Walter and Francis Cottrell, who renamed it the Rainbow Ranch Lodge.
Over the years, the Rainbow has seen many owners. Most of the property was destroyed by a fire in 2008 – the barn is the only original structure still standing to this day. The lodge and its outbuildings were soon reconstructed and then purchased by Gibson in 2011, who brought in Christian to revitalize the business after the lull of Covid.
The Rainbow of today is a lodge and restaurant, first and foremost. “We’re focused on the quality of the experience here, of both food and lodging,” says Christian. “It’s our priority to create traditions for people, with consistency and continuity.” Christian, a Certified Club Manager whose family home steadied in Bozeman in 1870, is honored to be part of Rainbow Ranch Lodge. “What’s exciting for Lisa and me is that this property feels very personal,” he says. “I have deep roots in the valley, so this is a homecoming to me.”
It shows. All the rooms at the Rainbow are inviting and cozy, with wood burning fire places and decks overlooking the river. The aptly named Riverside rooms are closest to the Gallatin with outdoor fire pits and have the feel of being more remote from the rest of the property. The Upper Pondside rooms boast bigger views and are done very much in a lodge style, with two bedrooms and a shared bathroom, overlooking the stocked trout pond. Finally, the Lower Pondside rooms are the largest – all split wood floors and small patios out front. “Each style of room has its own charm,” Christian explains. “And we have very competitive rates – our rooms are about half the price of staying in Big Sky town center or up at the lodges. People regularly call and ask for specific rooms that they really like.”
“What’s exciting for Lisa and me is that this property feels very personal. I have deep roots in the valley, so this is a homecoming to me.
–Peter Christian, Certified Club Manager, Rainbow Ranch Lodge
Another thing guests really like is the lodge’s Wild Caddis restaurant, an elevated yet relaxed dining room named for the popular fly fishing fly bait. The ranch-to-table-style menu supports local farms and utilizes sustainable products wherever possible and includes vegetarian and gluten free options.
Montana beef, bison, elk, trout, lamb, and venison will almost always be found here, and Executive Chef Nick Mehmke regularly incorporates such locally grown produce as apples, squash, beets, and huckleberries into the menu. “Chef Mehmke comes from three generations of farmers outside Great Falls, and he brings a different perspective to the restaurant, one of the land and the appropriateness of seasonality,” says Christian. “Combining this with our upscale menu and food service gives our guests more of that glamping experience, with a little patina.”
The Rainbow also boasts a venerable wine list, which has won the Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” several times over. Along with hundreds of wines, guests can choose from a local beer selection and a specialty cocktail menu, while relaxing in the Saloon during the 3:00 to 5:00pm happy hour. Small plates are available to enjoy with such libations as the Saloon’s signature Manhattan or the Montana Sky (a blend of Buffalo Trace whiskey, Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port, and bitters), or the selection of almost 50 whiskeys and bourbons.
“We have very competitive rates, our rooms are about half the price of staying in Big Sky town center or up at the lodges. People regularly call and ask for specific rooms that they really like.”
–Peter Christian, Certified Club Manager, Rainbow Ranch Lodge
For those who may desire a more singular experience, the Bacchus Room is the Rainbow’s private wine cellar, which can accommodate up to 12 people and holds over 2,500 bottles tucked behind glass panels and river rock columns. Everything from new world whites to old world reds can be selected, and events of all kinds are welcome at the Rainbow, whether it’s a holiday party, wine tasting, corporate meeting, or private dinner.
Then there are weddings, the heftiest of all events. Because the Rainbow remains perhaps the most intimate of all lodging options between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, it is a dream destination for many couples looking to tie the knot in a romantic outdoor environment. “We’ve become nationally known as a destination wedding venue,” Christian says. “When people want that Yellowstone effect with the Montana experience, we come up very high on their search.” The wedding tent, historic barn, or simply the large lawn under the big sky can accommodate up to 300 guests, who must surely be as awed by the vivid surrounding beauty as those early homesteaders once were.
“Chef Mehmke comes from three generations of farmers outside Great Falls, and he brings a different perspective to the restaurant, one of the land and the appropriateness of seasonality. Combining this with our upscale menu and food service gives our guests more of that glamping experience, with a little patina.”
–Peter Christian, Certified Club Manager, Rainbow Ranch Lodge
The icing on the cake of Rainbow Ranch Lodge is the outdoor infinity hot tub. Surrounded by a stone patio with a grand river rock fireplace at its side, this glorious, steaming pool beckons guests in after a cold, snowy day of skiing or on a cool summer night after a strenuous day of hiking…or maybe it beckons just because it’s fabulous. There might be several feet of snow surrounding the pool, but this only further fosters the glamping experience. Throw in an outdoor fire once the sun goes down, and you’ll never want to leave.
After the lull of Covid, fourth generation Bozemanite Peter Christian and his wife Lisa took over management of the Rainbow Ranch Lodge and revitalized the business.
The good news is you don’t have to leave. Rainbow Ranch Lodge is open seven days a week, 365 days a year, so when you need a place to hang your hat between fishing, skiing, ziplining, hunting, kayaking, or dog sledding, book your stay or head over for a special dinner, and appreciate the smooth ride to your luxurious respite on the Gallatin.
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